This work is licensed under a
Creative
Commons License.
Copyright 1996-2004 Dan Wentz
Power Brakes |
quick liNksmaintenanceSpecifications modificationsF-Series historyCanadian Ford & Mercury Trucks Early F-Series in Film & Television Online ToolscommunityMy 1950 f1 |
It's a pretty easy one with a few hitches. I transplanted the booster and master cylinder from a 1974 Mustang II into the stock location on my truck (on the frame, under the cab, for anyone who doesn't know). Here's what I did: I used a conversion kit from No Limit Engineering. I bought it through Sacramento Vintage Ford for about $90. It's basically just a bracket that bolts onto the frame of your truck. Installation is pretty simple, but I had to do some grinding on my bracket to get it to fit the frame. Directions are a little vague, but good common sense will guide you through. You're going to need (obviously) a booster and master cylinder. The Sac Vintage catalog says that the kit uses 74-79 Mustang parts so that's what I got. Don't believe em--the kit clearly states that you can use anything from 74 to 93. My recommendation to you is to get a later master cylinder from a Fox body Mustang (5.0 from 87 to 93). Once you've got your master cylinder mounted you'll see why--the earlier ones are the old cast iron that you fill and check from the top--there just ain't room under there for that. The later master cylinders have a clear plastic reservior and a lower profile--makes things 100 times easier (they're probably cheaper to buy too). After you've got your booster and master cylinder mounted, go have a cup of coffee and a cigarette (if you smoke). Then get back on your creeper and admire your handywork. After you're done gazing at your new power brake setup it's time to plumb
the thing. I'd suggest redoing all your brake lines--they're nearly 50
years old and they don't fit the new setup anyway. This involves basic
tube bending and routing. Take your time and use the old brake lines as
a template where you can. If you've never done this kind of work before,
get a book There are a couple extra things you need to do when plumbing your brake lines. You must install 2 residual pressure valves. One is a 10lb valve to the rear brakes (if drums) and the other is a 2lb valve to the front (if disks). If you've got 4 wheel drums then use a 10lb to the front. Likewise, if you have rear disks then use a 2lb to the rear. These valves hold pressure on the brakes--without them the pedal would sink slowly to the floor at a stop. It's never a bad idea to have them, but on these trucks it's a must because the master cylinder is mounted at the same level (or possibly lower) as the calipers and wheel cylinders. I bought my valves from Summit (made by Wilwood) for $16.95 each. As an option you can install an adjustable proportioning valve inline to the rear brakes. I bought mine from Summit for $39. Here's a money saving tip: Summit sells 2 proportioning valves--one says "Summit" on it and the other says "Willwood". The Summit is $40 and the Willwood is $80. They're the same valve! You'll need to run a vacuum line to the booster. I used 3/8" brake line to cover most of the distance. I connected it to the booster and manifold with 3/8 vacuum line. Another important thing is that you retain your original brake return spring. Without it it's too hard for the booster to overcome the tremendous weight of that pedal, so once you hit the brakes the pedal stays down. At first I thought I had a bad booster but I eventually figured it out. That's it. Not really too difficult, hopefully it will be much easier for you since you have my mistakes to learn from. Now get out there and put some power in your pedal--but don't hit 'em too hard or you'll shoot yourself through the windshield (seriously). |
|
Copyright 1996-2004 Dan Wentz |